|
Mountain Climbs
Notable Accomplishments
Latest News
Sponsors
Adventure Links
Order Kelly's Book
Contact
Home

|
Straight
Through the Heart
El Capitan - September 2005
|

Photo: By
Chris McNamara - El Capitan at sunset, modified by Craig Perkins to
black and white, except for the color in the natural heart formation. |
In Kelly and
Craig’s relentless pursuits to globally share positive examples of organ
donation, they have chosen to travel to Yosemite Valley in California and
climb El Capitan. El Capitan is one of the most famous rock climbing
walls in the valley, and world, and was specifically chosen due to a
natural “heart shaped” formation on the Southwest face. In September
of 2005, with their trademark, “Team Approach”, Kelly will be joined by
her husband and climbing partner Craig, Filmmaker
Michael Brown, world renowned climber and
rigger
Kevin Thaw, and Yosemite Mountain Guides
Scott
Stowe and
Ken
Yager, in her effort to lay the groundwork for one of the most
visually symbolic organ donor messages by climbing up and through the
“heart” of El Capitan.
Click Here
to view dispatches taken live from the mountain.
History
El Capitan
is perhaps the most awe-inspiring feature in all of Yosemite Valley, and
second only to Half Dome among Yosemite's most recognized features. The
climbing history on El Capitan is relatively short. In 1958 Warren
Harding lead an epic battle that lasted weeks, and became the first to
aid-climb the 3,000 feet of vertical rock. Harding's monumental route up
the prow became known as The Nose and started a new revolution in
climbing. Three years later in 1961 Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom
Frost set their eyes on another part of the wall called the Salathe
Wall. The Salathe Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John
Salathe, one of Yosemite's early pioneers. Robbins, Pratt, and Frost's
climb up The Salathe Wall firmly established the Golden Age of Yosemite
climbing and set the fundamental framework for a generation of climbers
that persists today.
Over 70 big
wall routes have been established on El Cap's Southwest and Southeast
faces, though most of these are variations connecting two or more of the
earlier established routes. At any given time from spring to fall, there
are dozens of climbers making their way up one of the established routes.
Ascents have been made in as little as 2 hours and as long as 200 days,
but the average party takes 4-6 days to make their way up, hauling 100 lbs
of gear, food, and water for each member. Down below, tourists, friends,
and loved ones park along Northside Drive and picnic in El Capitan Meadow
while watching the climbers' progress through binoculars.
Overview
of Route
The Muir
Wall runs along the northeast side of the “heart”. It is one of El
Cap’s greatest natural lines, second only to the Salathe. It boasts
large clean corners from the ground to the summit with moderate yet
sustained climbing. This route is substantially more involved than the
Nose or the Salathe but technically easier than the Shield or the Zodiac.
Statistics: (information
taken from
supertopo.com)
-
Muir Wall,
El Capitan: Rating – VI 5.9 C4 or A2
-
Climb
Time: 5 days up, 4 hours down (Rappel Southwest Ridge)
-
Pitches:
33
-
Height of
route: 2900’
Blood
Drive
The
Central California Blood Center has joined forces with the Perkins team
to get the word out to the community that everyone can do their part to
give the “gift of life” in multiple ways. Along with blood donation,
according to Kelly, “We hope our efforts will contribute towards an
increase in the (organ) donor pool, which can further stimulate the
development of safer drugs and treatments for transplant.”
During the
five days it will take the Perkins, and their team to reach the top, there
will be multiple opportunities in the Central Valley and in the Yosemite
Valley to sign up and give blood, as well as, register to be an organ
donor using California’s newly launched
Organ
and Tissue Donor Registry. This registry allows individuals to
express their commitment to become an organ donor and guarantees their
plans will be carried out when they die. All blood donors will
receive a commemorative T-shirt marking Kelly’s accomplishment.
Blood
donation takes less than one hour to complete. Donors must be in good
general health, weigh a minimum of 110 pounds and be at least 17 years
old. Senior citizens are encouraged to donate, as there is no upper age
limit. Donors should eat a good meal and drink plenty of water within 4
hours prior to their donation. Donors can give blood every eight weeks,
the time it takes the body to replace a pint of blood. A Social Security
Number is required for registration, and first-time donors must present
photo identification upon registration.
As a special
form of recognition, the President's Council on Physical Fitness and
Sports has generated a document highlighting this distinctive event,
memorialized with its recognizable Presidential Seal.
Click here to view the communiqué. |